20 April 2008

last words on niger

the supermarket we went to, one of the main streets leading to the petit marché in niamey.

the entrance to the grand marché - which was insane! i wish i could have taken pictures inside, but logistically it was just too hard unfortunately, with all the crowds etc.

just driving around niamey...

dr. ghaichatou - the woman we stayed with, plus her niece and ali and me on our last night in her house, right before she took us to the airport. she was amazing! such a wonderful person, i'm completely indebted to her for letting us stay at her house.

so i thought i'd post some last things on niger, which i admit i am missing already. i do love being back in oxford, but man - that trip was just so short and it's so sad that it's now done. anyway, like i said, elliott sent me a bunch of good questions about niger so i'm going to answer them on my blog in case anyone is interested:

Tell us more about the food there. the staple food that all nigeriens eat is millet/sorghum ground up with some sort of sauce. 80% of the people live in rural communities, and that's all you can really grow out in the bush/sahara. only wealthier people eat meat occasionally.

And the women you're meeting in the hospitals. i mentioned more about them in my older post, but like i said, they're almost all illiterate, from villages out in the middle of nowhere, and the majority have been abandoned by their husbands due to their fistula. they're very kind and open and friendly - they were fantastic.

Where did the doctors get their training? How do people pay for healthcare? there is a medical school through the state university, that's where dr. ghaichatou got her training - but i was talking to one student there who said that the teachers and students all go on strike every month at least, because the government "forgets" to pay for the facilities. classic. but the national hospital is a teaching hospital, and there were tons of students around all the time. people have to pay for healthcare themselves, there's no national program and i never heard anything about any sort of insurance. this makes it so that people only go to the doctor when they're basically about to die - because they can't afford anything else. there are health clinics in a lot of the villages in niger, but they cost 1,000 CFA per visit (about $2.50), and hardly anyone can afford that, so they go unused. (or they go unused because there's not enough medical staff to run the things in the first place)

What happens to the women when they get out of the hospital and go back to their villages? that's a tricky thing - most just return to their mother's homes, some will go back to their husbands now that they are healed. but they have to be really careful about having more children, since their vagina has basically been reconstructed. and it's hard for them to come back for the necessary check-ups etc. when they live so far out in the bush.

What about the history of Niger? I know nothing about that country. niger was colonized by the french, but part of the "afrique inutile," or useless africa - because it's mostly desert, the french sort of ignored it. it got independence in 1960 and has a series of military coups and dictatorships ever since. quite a typical history for an african nation.

What do people do for work? well, unemployment is shockingly high. people who live in rural communities are basically just subsistence farmers, just planting their fields, tending their animals if they're wealthy enough to have them. in the city, people sell things in markets or work for NGOs (there are soooo many in niger).

Do families live together in multiple generations? yes, everyone lives together in a compound-like home. even in the city. ghaichatou had her own house technically, but her uncles and cousins lived adjacent, and everyone was around all the time.

Do they sit at a table when they eat dinner or on the floor? on the floor, with a communal plate.

Do they have toilets or outhouses? outhouses. but i had a toilet, which was wondrous.

Do most people go without electricity? yes, the rural communities are basically completely devoid of electricity. and niamey itself is pretty dark - electricity is very expensive, and there are long power outages all the time (which made it nearly impossible to sleep - no fan! ah, too dang hot)

Do people drive cars, bikes, or walk? walk mostly, ride animals (camels, donkeys etc), some ride bikes - there are bush taxis in the rural areas to take people from village to village, and taxis in the city, which is what i used.

Are their highways and railroads in Niger? no railroads, and yes highways which are pretty dodgy and disappear in most places so you're just driving on sand.

Do they use a national currency, or money from somewhere else? Or do people barter? they use the CFA, which is a west african currency used in about 10 countries including senegal, burkina faso, togo, benin etc. etc. people don't barter in the city, but maybe in the villages?

Where do people go to buy food--do most use grocery stores, or do farmers set up stands in the towns--or do most people grow their own food? in the rural areas everyone grows their own food, but there are markets once a week as well where people sell extra veggies etc. in the city rich people go to supermarkets, and then there are street markets selling vegetables, meat etc. that people go to. but most of the country lives off food they grow themselves.

How do people cope with the heat? oh man, they find it almost as difficult to bear as we do - march and april are "la saison de mort," or "the season of death," according to nigeriens. they find shade, and basically avoid going out from 12 - 5. really cuts back on economic productivity...

Are there problems getting clean water given that they're in the Sahara? yes, absolutely. water is scarce and quite dirty. the water we used to wash ourselves smelled absolutely awful, and this was in a nice city house. i can't imagine what it's like in the bush.

ok, there you go. sorry for the lengthy post - but if any of you were in anyway interested! :)

14 April 2008

les fistuleuses

so ali and i have safely returned from niamey, niger. the weather in oxford is BEAUTIFUL and we're in love with warm showers, eating apples, and drinking water from the tap. :)

so i thought i'd post some pictures of the fistula ward/women since the majority of my time was spent with them. my research was on international eradication efforts of obstetric fistula, and if the campaigns coordinate with demographic realities on the ground. for those of you who have no idea what obstetric fistula is (which is totally understandable, it's been completely eradicated in the first world), it is simply a hole which develops between the vagina, urethra and/or rectum, resulting in incontinence. the hole or fistula develops as a result of obstructed, prolonged labour, and is symptomatic of the almost complete lack of medical facilities in impoverished countries: especially niger where 80% of the population lives in rural villages. because the women are leaking urine and/or feces, they are almost always determined as outcasts in their community and abandoned by their husbands. they have to go through pretty incredible lengths to arrive at this hospital in niamey to get repairative surgery. sometimes they have to be operated on multiple times (one woman had 13 attempted repairs before she was finally healthy), and therefore live in this outdoor courtyard for years on end.

so here are some pictures of the hospital etc.:

one of the general courtyards of the hospital, on a particularly empty day. the hospital is made of multiple rooms connected by outdoor corridors and courtyards. usually they are all completely packed with people - i honestly couldn't say what most of them are doing there... waiting for medical care? waiting for a loved one? trying to find a shady spot to rest in? hard to say really.


the fistula courtyard. some 60 women live there at one time, a number which can fluctuate up to 100. the women recover from their surgeries here, wait for more surgeries, and help each other get through it all.

emily, amadu, major, mariama, and haoua in front of the courtyard. emily was the peace corps worker there, amadu was a social worker with the women, major the general nurse in charge of them all, and mariama and haoua were previous fistula patients who now live and work in the fistula ward as nurses. they are all wonderful! i love these people!



some pictures of ali and me with the women (there are tons more where that came from - but i decided to just post 2). the first picture is of a particularly wonderful woman who we interviewed: fati, who has been leaking urine for 7 years and had multiple fistula surgeries. she had actually attended 7 years of school and could even recite the french alphabet (amazing in a country where 90% of women are illiterate). she had a 12 year old daughter who was also in school - she truly has lived outside the expected norms of nigerien women, and we praised her greatly for it. what's tragic is that she still developed a fistula, despite her forward-thinking lifestyle. the health care of the hospital she delivered the baby at was simply ill-equipped and under-staffed to help her through the complicated labour. but she was one of the many wonderful women we interacted with while working there. i can't say enough about this experience - it was absolutely fantastic. and i'm eternally grateful to ali for coming all the way to niger with me. :) she's the best friend i could ask for.

love you all - i'll post more pictures, plus elliott sent me an email with a bunch of really good basic questions about life in niger that i'll answer via blog-post. sannu!

06 April 2008

more pictures!




1. the niger river going right through the center of the city
2. the entrance to the hospital i work at
3. a typical traffic round-about in downtown niamey, notice all the signs for various NGOs/IGOs?
4. typical market stand with typical nigerienne women

more later! love you all! have a great conference weekend (wish i could hear it...)!

01 April 2008

more from niamey


fo fo! sannu! bonjour! take your pick on what greeting you want - i don't know the ones in tamashek or biri-biri, but i could add those as well. niamey is insane in that way (and typical of africa in general) - everyone speaks at least 3 languages, and they're all interchanged quite frequently. my french is pretty useless actually - i really should speak hausa or djerma. alas.

anyway, here are some shots from niamey - the first is the sunset from our house a few nights ago. so beautiful - and there are quite a lot of trees around niamey, especially the nicer houses, considering we are in the sahara. the second shot was taken from a taxi - quite typical of niamey, that's what a lot of it looks like. spread out, dusty, low buildings - everything quite clean and ordered, just poor by first world standards.

my work at the hospital continues to go well. research has fallen into place and i feel very grateful at the surprising ease of it all. the women at the hospital are lovely and strong and happy despite some of the extraordinary pain many of them have faced. i love being here, africa is a difficult but wonderful place to work in. the people are extraordinary and i can't say enough about niger itself. such a safe friendly place to be! love you all and i'll try to post more pictures soon.

28 March 2008

third-world me

hello all from niamey, niger! the local peace corps volunteer showed us a very nice cafe here that has wireless internet access, so i am here with my laptop on lunch break from work at the hospital and thought i'd let everyone know that i am safe in this blessed country. this is a picture of what ali and i like to call the 'third-world version' of ourselves - haha, not exactly the most attractive. but it's insanely hot here (it is the sahara after all): thus the large bottle of water in my hand, of which i drink at least 3 a day. i'm standing in front of the beautiful and luxurious house of dr. ghaichatou, the woman we are staying with here in niamey. she's an absolute gem, i couldn't say enough about her - she cooks us fantastic food every night, even though she works 11 hour days at the UNFPA office's fistula-eradication department. she's hilarious and strong and independent and overwhelmingly generous. that's par for the course here in niger, though - the people are so so lovely. i couldn't say enough about them! so welcoming and kind. my research is going well, the hospital is intense and shockingly sad at times, but i'm so happy to be here.

love you all. i'll probably update again.

a plus tard!

10 March 2008

end of hilary term





i said a very tearful farewell to oxford last night. another 6 week term break... my time will mostly be spent in fieldwork in niger, but with brief visits in berkeley and utah before.

here are some shots of the last few days: i had dinner in Christ Church college's hall with a large group of african studies friends. it was spectacular, as you can see. and then last night we all went out to the pub for a final drink...of water in my case :) and yes, that last picture is of my dear german friend toni - i figured he should make his debut on my blog sometime or another. and yes, he was the hardest goodbye of the evening. sigh.

BUT i'm so so excited to see so much of the fam in a few short days! to squeeze all the little ones. :) as for oxford, see you in trinity term...

03 March 2008

2 more things to be grateful for

1. the flowers currently in my room, for blooming while i slept last night.

2. the embassy in niger, for speedily getting my passport and visa safely back to me. :) now i can fly to the US safe and sound next week!